Bali 5th February

Today was officially our last day of travel (as tomorrow we are in transit and on Tuesday we will be home). We woke up to a lovely day outside and headed to the beach walk where we took our time walking the whole strip then stopped for some banana pancakes and juice. 

We then headed to the main street to look at some shops and bought some cheap books for the ride home. After one last meal of fried rice for quite some time, the sun got the better of us so we headed home for a swim. 

Afterwards we both spent quite some time packing our bags (it all fits!!! just) then went for a walk to the beach one last time. 

Our trip has been absolutely amazing and it was so nice to be able to wind down before we head home. We will keep you posted once we are home, in the mean time you can check out every picture we took for the last 3 months here. 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

xoxoxo Newbie and Da Loon.

Bali 4th February

Today was our first day in Sanur. Our main reason for visiting Sanur was to relax by the beach/ pool and unwind completely before heading back to our real lives again (sigh). 

Today we strolled around the streets and beachside, people watched, made a few hilarious purchases from a lady with a lot of personality and swam in the pool. 

For us, it was as close as we get to relaxing. 

In the evening we ate fried rice and watched a DVD, then off to bed for our last day of travel. 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Bali 3rd February

Today we did what we had been trying to do since Thailand. A cooking Class!!!

We woke up early to check out of our accommodation and wait for our cooking class pickup. A lady came down to the breakfast area where we were waiting and told us to follow her. She led us out to two motorbikes… not a car. Aparently our transfer was on the back of a bike in Asia. Something we had managed to avoid for three months for fear of our lives. We cautiously got on the back of each motorbike (with no helmet!) and away we went through the small streets of Ubud. We were glad to get off and stand on solid ground again. 

Next we were walked through a local market to discover all the fresh produce and buy our ingredients for the day. 

Some of the local fruit and veg were just so cheap and looked amazing!

Flowers are used quite a bit in Indonesian cooking, but are also used for offerings to the gods. 

Here is every spice you can think of and fresh vanilla beans. Yum. 

White pepper

Petals 

Eggplant

Long beans 

Chillis 

Our freshly chopped and ready to go ingredients. 

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Clare making Gado Gado sauce

We made 

- Nasi Goreng (fried noodle)

- Mi Goreng (fried rice)

- Gado Gado (satay vegies)

and Caramel coconut pancakes (yum!)

Flipping pancakes! Look at us go.

Our finished products!

For more pictures of our cooking adventures click here.

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Bali 2nd February

Today we did an amazing bike ride from the top of an active volcano down (minimal peddling) through rice fields and villages. It was incredible. 

Apart from the time where Kyras only pair of pants got stuck in the bike chain and ripped to her knee, it was a spectacular day. 

The view below is where we had breakfast from, overlooking the lake and volcano. 

Next we stopped off at a local coffee and herb plantation and saw how tasty balinese coffee was made. We also saw how Luwak coffee was made, which is from the poo of a little monkey like creature called the Luwak who only eats the finest beans. At home, one cup of Luwak coffee is around $35 dollars. (Unfortunately due to its high demand in Western countries the Luwaks are now caged for their poo instead of left to roam. Just another way that animals suffer at the hands of human greed.) 

We watched some Balinese Robusta and Arabica being roasted.

Then we got to try all different types of coffee and some cocoa which was great. We didn’t try the Luwak coffee because we felt sorry for the little poor things whose cage was right behind the cafe. 

Next we were off through some small villages and rice fields. It was a beautiful ride.

Last stop was a massive old Bunyan tree which almost made you dizzy to stare up at. 

Lunch was served before we went home which was one of the best Indonesian meals we have had. Gado Gado is a local vegetarian satay cuisine and it was absolutely divine!

Check out the rest of the pics from the ride here 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Bali 1st February

Today was the first day of the last week of our trip!

We arrived in Ubud late last night and today we woke up for a day full of exploring. First stop, Monkey Temple. 

Monkey Temple is a temple surrounded by rainforest and is inhabited by hundreds of monkeys. Today the temple was packed because the 31st and 1st of January is the Galungan festival. On these days, Balinese Hindus make their way to temples to pray and commemorate the victory of good over evil and worldly distractions.

The women carry hand woven baskets with offerings inside. This is often little cakes and boiled rice on banana leaves.

The monkeys are just everywhere!

Cute little baby monkey!

Secret garden waterfall.

The street leading to our accommodation. 

Some offerings for the festival 

We were having a great time, till… Clare got jumped by a monkey. Newbs took a video while Clare tried to shake him off her head. 

After the attack we left the monkey temple and headed for some lunch. 

Later that evening we watched a traditional Balinese dance show which was absolutely amazing. 

To see the rest of the photos from the show or the temple click here 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Cambodia 29th,30th and 31st January

These few days have just been about winding down and casually seeing some more of Phnom Penh. We ate some amazing meals, did some shopping (not that we have any space left it our bags) and found some little places that we never knew existed. 

Below is the amazing muesli and yoghurt breakfast we splurged on. It was definitely worth it after all that rice and 2 minute noodles.

Phnom Penh streets

Tuk Tuk

Clares cool new phone case.

Our hotel had a pool and our room was huge with a TV so we did spend a lot of time swimming and relaxing. It was nice to have a little time to wind down before the line of flights ahead of us. 

The 31st was an entire day at airports and needless to say, it was painful. We spent most of our time in cafes using the free wifi though and it passed quickly enough. 

Next and final stop… BALI!!!

All our pics are here…

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Cambodia 28th January

Today was a slow day. We made our way into the city to find our hotel (with air con and a pool!) 

But before we left, Clare was blessed by a monk!

We also both considered taking up drinking and smoking while away as this entire bottle of vodka was $7.20 and a pack of cigarettes were 20cents!

For the next few days we will just be relaxing and exploring Phnom Penh before we head to Bali. 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Cambodia 24th-27th January

After much deliberation, we decided to stick to our commitment and return for the next few days. The kids were expecting us back and hadn’t had anything for six months so we felt like we were doing them wrong by not returning with the crayons, paper and supplies for the time we told them we would. We also used these last few days to get as much information as we could and arrange a meeting with our volunteer organisation to discuss the situation at CHA. 

The kids coloured for ages, made different craft projects and played games. We blew lots of our magic bubbles and the kids had a ball. 

The kids cook their own lunch and wash their own dishes when we leave.

Then wash their own clothes. 

Outside our house one lunch there was a Chinese New Year parade!

We sat outside with Grandma watching.

Everyone got to be a prince or princess for a day when we made crowns :)

Then the boys made masks to attach to their crowns (such creative kids) and played power rangers!

Hop scotch here is done with a broken bit of tile and charcoal for chalk. 

We celebrated Australia day with some vegemite on crackers whilst streaming Triple Js Hottest 100 countdown. 

The next day we bought along fresh fruit and veg for the kids. They ate it all so quick and clearly loved it. I think you would have a hard time getting kids at home to eat raw cucumber and corn.

While we weren’t looking, Duk decided to play in the toilet water and give herself a bath. 

On the last day, we had a movie day! The kids were so excited and were all so well behaved watching it. 

In our last few days we discovered that the orphanage would be closing at the end of the month. While its good that such an institution will no longer run, the situation for the kids is dire. They can either chose to move to the province with the director, find another orphanage or be homeless. 

We had a discussion with the team at our volunteer organisation and they promised to monitor the situation, do what they can and keep us in the loop. They also agreed to stop donations and will not be sending any other volunteers along. 

https://picasaweb.google.com/102890046419599302176

Kyra’s thoughts.

After our first week at CHA I was seriously beginning to wonder about the orphanage, our role and the good it’s doing everyone involved. 

Every day, the children are left alone with us, with no other supervision. The kids are extremely needy, quick to be friendly to whoever will pay them attention and will often resort to begging if they don’t get their way. 

Having an education in social welfare, alarm bells have been going off in my head for a while. None of the stories here match up, the director is hardly ever present, there are currently 5 volunteers, absolutely no regulation and as far as I can tell, a lot of the kids have at least one living parent.  

After doing some research on Institutionalised care in Cambodia I have found out a few things. Firstly, there is no need for a license or permit to open an orphanage in Cambodia. Secondly, the number of orphanages in Cambodia has tripled in the last five years and finally there is a very real and very damaging phenomena of “voluntourism” impacting these children’s lives for the worst. 

The reality of the situation is this:

  • There are legitimate orphans with no family to speak of and no where to go in Cambodia. 
  • There are also some legitimate orphanages that support and provide for these children. 
  • There are a lot of corrupt orphanages in Cambodia.
  • There are a lot of foreigners with good intentions and money to give away.
  • Orphanages provide food, shelter and education.
  • There are a lot of families in Cambodia with no means to provide some or all of those things.

This means that families are giving up their children because they receive no support or do not have the resources to provide for their children. Foreigners fund orphanages and ensure that they receive the necessities. The children are in situations that are less than ideal. Although they receive education, food and shelter, they need love. I’m not just being cute- unconditional love and nurturing are a necessity for the healthy development of a child. Their families can provide this far better than any institution can .The money that is spent on orphanages could be as easily spent on supporting families to keep their children and ensuring they have enough to feed and educate them. No matter how well run an institution is, nothing replaces a loving and nurturing family environment. 

After pushing past the guilt and confusion over what I was doing in an orphanage if it could be contributing to separating families and creating more orphans, I asked myself a few questions. 

What were your expectations coming here?

What is the reality? and

What are your unwavering beliefs on child welfare and safety?

The truth is that I was aware that corruption was ripe in Cambodia, everywhere. I understood that often orphanages were involved in corruption and that there were cases of some orphanages opening their doors up to day visitors, passers by and anyone who cared to pay a visit to the kids. I wanted to avoid giving my support to this kind of thing so Clare and I both made sure we researched this part of the trip properly. We went through a number of reputable NGOs to make sure we ended up being placed somewhere that was legitimate. We also got police checks for the trip and ensured that the orphanage we would volunteer at only wanted us for helping out, teaching English and participating in general duties that needed completing. 

I guess my expectations were that I would help out wherever I could, assist in some teaching and entertain the kids a bit. I assumed that they would have permanent staff looking after them and meeting their needs. I expected that there would be checks and balances in place to ensure the kids safety and wellbeing while we were there with them. 

The reality is that anyone can walk on in to this place. The other worrying reality is that we are alone with the kids all day. We can not teach them as we have zero resources or translators. We do our best through song but these kids speak no English and we speak very little Khmer. I have my doubts about this kids safety and I’m willing to bet the other volunteers do not have Police checks. If anyone can walk into the orphanage for a visit and spend hours alone with these kids, how is that in any way safe? 

As for my unwavering beliefs, first and foremost I believe that every decision made regarding children should be made in the best interest of the individual child and its safety. I believe that preventing family separation is important. I believe that the childs opinion should always be listened to and taken into account. I believe if important decisions are made regarding a childs welfare, the outcome should be constantly monitored and reviewed. Finally I believe that all services and decisions should be provided without discrimination to any party involved. 

In recognising this I realise that what I though was helping is infact doing more harm than good. Decisions are not being monitored or reviewed because there is no one to be held accountable to. I can not say for sure if the children are being listened to, or if the parents of the children are being discriminated against. Ultimately our presence here is not in the kids best interest. Nothing can replace the personal attention and love of a family member, no matter how poor the family. We really have to consider our impact here and that means recognising that supporting corrupt orphanages means that we are creating more orphans. These kids are not in an environment that is in their best interest. 

Obviously the whole issue is not black and white. In an ideal world, no kid should be in an orphanage, but in this world at least, no kid with a family who loves them and can provide safety should be in an orphanage. We should fund families instead of funding orphanages, particularly those that aren’t legitimate. While these kids are being provided with food, shelter and education, at what cost?

I have realised that spending my time with these children is a band-aid solution to a much bigger problem, if that. While its lovely to give these kids attention and play games with them, in the end its only putting them in a position of more vulnerability where they will ultimately experience another abandonment when we leave. 

That, and the fact that visiting orphanages is becoming such a ‘must do activity’ that its actually in the lonely planet. Gap year students flood these small communities with the best intentions but instead leave devastating impacts on the community. The phenomena has been dubbed “the new colonists” because locals are losing their jobs due to the fact that tourists pay to work in these places and organisations are becoming westernised in order to accommodate to the tourists needs. NGOs are open specifically to place volunteers in these type of organisations, surely knowing the impacts. 

We have to ask ourselves what the word tourist and orphanage are doing in the same sentence. Would this behaviour be okay at home? 

All of this leaves me with plenty of questions, particularly what do I do now?

I want to be able to change something, ensure that my visit wasn’t in vain and I also feel like I have made a commitment to the project. The reality is that the problem starts here and can only be finished here. Without programmes to support families to support themselves, how will the cycle end? Without legitimate, accountable, licensed orphanages how can we ensure the safety of children in need? Without a willing and uncorrupt government how can any of this even begin to happen?

I don’t have many answers at this point except the feeling that I should redirect my time and energy. My presence and support in this case is not helping. I have a feeling that more research, educating others and supporting NGOs that fund micro-finance programs to families is a step in the right direction. In the mean time my intention is to email anyone who will listen and post this blog for anyone who will read it. 

It’s one thing to travel half way across the world to help out, but another thing entirely to ignore the fact that your attempts are misguided and potentially very harmful. 

Cambodia 23rd January

Today was a part of the Chinese New Year Holiday so fire crackers (in the daytime) could be heard everywhere and loads of things were closed for the day. 

We headed to the orphanage armed with lots of supplies ready for a day of craft, drawing and fun. When we arrived all of the drawings and snakes and sea creatures were gone. The director said they fell but we had a suspicion that they had been removed. Not one remained and all the blue tack was gone. 

Clare spent part of her morning with the boys playing memory while Kyra drew with some of the girls. The plan was to make lanterns for the chinese New Year but the kids had something else in mind. 

Apparently everyone was going to be a ninja today. 

We got to it, helping everyone deck themselves out in armour and decorated them in stickers. 

The lanterns went to Duk who thought it was hilarious to peek through them and laugh herself silly. It was really great to see her laugh and come out of her shell a little bit more every day. She’s a real little character with a penchant for cleaning. 

This little guy made himself a gun and holster (definitely not our idea)

Cutie here wanted some stickers on the place where all the other kids had ninja belts on. 

So we made her one too. 

Needless to say it was a very exciting day!

The tale of two intrepid spring chickens on the adventure of a lifetime.

Meet Da Loon, connoisseur of all things 90s, bell-bottom extraordinaire and leopard print queen. Photobucket

Meet Newbie, empress of exaggeration, craft aficionado and muscle tee enthusiast. Photobucket

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